Here are my rough notes about making my LED cyr wheel. A Video can be seen here.
I used a new technique for bending wheels; this time, I used a cheap Harbor Freight rolling bender with modifications from the 4×4 Forums that provide “weld on” wings, and the ability to make it motorized with a Harbor Freight pipe threading machine. I couldn’t roll the complete circle with it attached to my stand below:
(the picture shows it fully rolled, but it was AFTER I and moved it). The problem is my tubing would hit the top of my carport before I could make a complete circle. So, I rolled it mainly on the side, and made the Harbor Freight pipe threader have an on/off switch. This was more of a necessity rather than an innovation, as the switch on the thing failed. I quickly realized it was much easier to operate without me holding the switch on and it was quite handy to have an on/off switch instead of a button.
General parts list:
Arduino Micro Pro
Analog LED strips (ie: one color at a time, NOT individually addressable because I didn’t have enough memory in the Micro to do it)
1 1/2″ OD aluminum tubing (with 1/8″ sidewall)
Steel tubing for inserts that fits the inner diameter (1 1/4″ OD, but I turn it on the lathe to make it fit better)
High temp clear hot glue gun glue
Strong packing tape
8 1.2v rechargeable batteries
The controller is an Arduino Micro Pro. It is small enough to fit in the wheel. I wired it up as recommend by Adafruit’s LED strip guide which is to use an N-channel MOSFET (from Fry’s electronics) as seen here:
The battery pack is made up of 8 AA cells. Each cell 2-pack AA battery pack holders from Fry’s (Radio Shack also has them, and you can buy them online). I wired the pack up in series to create about 9.6v total; a little low than the recommend 12 volts to drive the LED strips, but it worked fine. If you use non rechargeable batteries they are at a slightly higher voltage, and will give you 12v out.
Each section of the 5 piece wheel is independent and can be taken apart. I soldered into the LED strips for each wire (one for each color, red/green/blue and a 12v source), and drilled a small hole close by them. The hole is past where the insert comes up to; however, if I were to do it again, I’d put the hole further away from the insert, as the wires inside sometimes bunch up. The wires go inside the wheel (through a grommet) and out the end:
In the picture above, the LED strip is way too close to the insert holes. I originally was going to run two strips; one on each side of the holes, and slightly off the inner diameter so I wouldn’t apply too much pressure on them. I didn’t do this because of time (and cost), and wanted to see if the LEDs could survive with my weight (the answer is no…many are loosing a few colors when connections break due to my weight on them). When I put the wheel together I initially had a short; it was because the metal screw grounded the LEDs right not he above insert hole. I had to pull the LEDs off and move them over a bit to get it to work.
Once out the end, I installed connectors. These connectors suck and I just got them from Frys…instead, I wish I would have had time to get some good ones from the internet (two are also silly; only one is needed but it is what I could find on short notice). The wire lengths are long enough to go past the insert on one side, and on the other piece that mates to it they are short; this is so you can take one side of the insert off and disconnect it easily, without having excess wire (which would be hard to push into the wheel).
Here’s the battery detail; in this picture it has a fuse..but the fuse was too big and I had to remove it. The arduino is stuffed into the side on the left, and the battery fits on the side on the right. It just slips into the wheel and there is a “stop” that prevents it from going into the wheel too far. The stop is just a screw drilled and tapped (you can see it on the wheel, adjacent to the second battery from the right):
The insert can be used to push the battery pack inside the wheel. The pack is removed by pulling on the wire; the cells can be removed and recharged.
The arduino is stuffed into the left side of the wheel; it is held in by friction and nothing more. I can pull it out (gently) by using the wires…it is sort of tough to get out, so I embedded a metal wire inside to help me get it in and out. If I were to do its gain, I’d make the wiring sleeker so it slips in more easily.
The inserts are steel tubing; I think I used 3/16″ thick tubing, and turned it on the lathe to fit inside the wheel (like normal). For the 1.5″ outer diameter aluminum tubing, I think I turned the outer diameter of the inside steel tubes to 1.228″ (they should be 1.250″ if they fit perfect…but they need some slop to slide in without trouble). 1.235″ was too big still.
That’s the basics. I have videos detailing it that I’ll post too.
Things I didn’t post: the tubing was cut and re-glued together with a hot glue gun and high temp clear hot glue. I then put packing tape over it to make it smoother. It works “okay”, but they come apart over time — especially after a week at burning man. I’d like to find some material that is better at gluing the PVC tubing together, or gluing it to the metal wheel.
As I mentioned before, some LEDs are dying. My weight on them makes them loose a connection and they don’t do the full color spectrum. I need to figure out how to solve that. Another problem is that if the wheel is dropped or hits the ground hard, it will black out; I have a bad connection somewhere, and rebooting is pretty slow (I need to remove the Arduino boot loader to make it boot faster)..
I’ve had this done a while…but here are some pictures of the bathroom cabinets and vanity. This is mainly for me to remember and look back on my blog and see what I did to the house over the years.
Drawers installed, but the faces aren’t mounted yet:
Here is the installed plumbing for dual showers (one on each side). Here’s the left side; the plumbing runs to the upstairs bathroom:
I then built a shower pan according to a tile book I have (and the internet). I sort of took what I thought was the best/easiest approach. I mixed portland cement (type 3/4 is all I could find at home depot), with “medium grit sand” from home depot. The medium grit seems too gritty…and if I were to do it again I’d use a finer sand. I did a ratio of roughly 4′ish parts sand to 1 part cement. What I read on the internet was to add just enough water to make it fully wet…however, I’m not sure this was quite enough water for it to “float” well, and it was really hard to get the proper downhill gradient done right:
After that dried, I installed shower pan membrane from home depot:
You have to be careful to not puncture it. I installed the drain, plugged it, and tested for leaks; it seemed fine.
I then applied the second section of cement. Depending on where you read, there are several ways to do this; you could first install the cement backer board and embed the bottom part in the cement (but be sure to NOT put the backer board fully down on the membrane; it has to remain 1-1.5″ above it, otherwise you can get water damage as the pan is designed to drain water seepage out). Instead, I opted to put the backer board up later on top of the cement, which was much easier in not worrying about making a hole in the backer board. I’m glad I did it this way.
Under the backer board is 15# felt tar paper.
For the threshold, I mixed roughly 3-1 sand to cement, and used more water than before. This was MUCH easier to float..but still not the easiest thing to do. The trouble I’m having now is that the cement base/pan has been wearing a way a bit; the coarse sand on top wasn’t floated well, and rubbed off with me walking on it. I’m going to float a tiny bit (1/8″) more cement on top to smooth it out.
Next, all seams were taped with fiberglass tape and mudded with thinset:
Tonight I put “Red Guard” over the niches so they will not leak. Also on the window threshold. Two coats are required. I also put some on other parts of the wall “just in case”. Tiling will commence soon!
Here are some videos of the LED Cyr wheel at Burning Man 2013
Spencer also put together a compilation of it here (with a Fire Cyr wheel and LED Unicycle!):
Playing with tile options (ordered!) and still working on the bathroom remodel project. Cabinets have the finish applied, and I’m doing drywall work. Then plumbing…then tile.
First off, don’t use Fortes Brothers Towing in Cupertino! They are terrible, and don’t know what they are doing. AAA called them to tow my bug home from work (in Cupertino), and the guy had it almost setup and just said my car was too low and they don’t do lowered cars! I’ve had the car towed 3 or 4 times before; never have I had any trouble at all. Worst off, the idiot driver drove away with my laptop and at first they refused to acknowledge they had it! AAA said all I could do was file a police report. But, after I called the company, they admitted they did have it and would give it back. geez. I ordered a flat bed truck from AAA, but unfortunately the same tow company (Fortes Brothers) canceled the tow without telling me! I sat around waiting for a tow that never came.
But anyways, my car was having a “frame leak”, which means the high voltage had potential when compared to the chassis of the car. This should only be used for the 12v ground, as the high voltage battery pack needs to be completely isolated for safety. I realized something was wrong last week because my car was giving “GFCI faults” at the Chargepoint stations. However, it seemed to still charge okay on a 240V dryer plug at home, so I drove it to work and charged it there on one of those plugs. But then it wouldn’t start; my Elithion BMS was going crazy giving faults, and the controller didn’t want to click on. I realized it was a frame leak, and traced it to my Belktronix DC-DC converter. While waiting for the tow truck driver I popped it out (thanks to Shane for helping me at work and giving me a ride home!), and stuck it in the mail the next day.
In general, about 0.4s exposure, f2.8, iso1250.
I made an LED cyr wheel! Details coming soon. I brought it to burning man 2013 and camped with my “Circus Boot Camp” friends. Ray took this picture:
I tore out the rest of the drywall, and removed the old bath tub. I then started redoing the electrical in prep for the new cabinet. The electrical switches were on the wrong side; they should always be on the opposite side of the door hinges, so they are easy to get to when you open the door. The prior owner seemed to like to always put them on the left, which makes them really difficult to use. I wish I would have realized this before I drywalled my main entrance; otherwise I would have moved the switches. At least now for the bathroom I can move them to the right place:
Sample install of the lighting; I’m glad I did a test install…I decided to move the outlet box up 3″ more. My ceilings are fairly low in the bathroom (roughly 7′), so this is pretty close to the top for the lights, but they should look awesome.
I’m going with one light over the main sink area, and another over the shower/toilet area. I also prepped electrical (and a switch) for an exhaust fan.
The above picture shows the old toilet in the new location (working great). I ordered a super-low flow dual flush toilet that should be here tomorrow.
Next, I fixed up water damage on the floor. My tub/shower had leaked on the sides , damaging the floor pretty bad. I had install some new floor joists and add new plywood flooring (luckily I had some laying around from the prior owner in my shed). I also had to repair water damage from the prior owner that was poorly repaired; I redid it right.
The last thing I recently did is some more sample staining; this is just a coat of water based shellac as a sealer with a stain on top. I’m leaning towards the bottom right or led; the top pieces are too red, and the cherry wood itself will get a darker red brown with time and UV exposure.. Also it will look shinier/different when it has a finish on top (more pictures later when i really do that test).
I finished my drawers; sprayed 4 coats of Target Coatings Water based lacquer on them. (EmTech 6000). It took a whole gallon to do them all..and ran out right at the end.
These are mainly notes for myself, as I wish I had made notes when I did my last set of drawers. I would first spray the bottoms on edge, like below:
Then drop them into the normal position after they dried and do the rest. I put on two coats, then sanded with 220 to get any bumps off. The bottoms of the smaller drawers got a little too thick on the bottom side…and it is slightly more yellow than I wanted, but still good enough. Four coats seems adequate; more would have too much buildup.
My Mini-mate HVLP pump/compressor.