Archive for the 'Project Hutchinson' Category
Wednesday, October 16th, 2013
I’ve had this done a while…but here are some pictures of the bathroom cabinets and vanity. This is mainly for me to remember and look back on my blog and see what I did to the house over the years.
Drawers installed, but the faces aren’t mounted yet:
Here is the installed plumbing for dual showers (one on each side). Here’s the left side; the plumbing runs to the upstairs bathroom:
I then built a shower pan according to a tile book I have (and the internet). I sort of took what I thought was the best/easiest approach. I mixed portland cement (type 3/4 is all I could find at home depot), with “medium grit sand” from home depot. The medium grit seems too gritty…and if I were to do it again I’d use a finer sand. I did a ratio of roughly 4′ish parts sand to 1 part cement. What I read on the internet was to add just enough water to make it fully wet…however, I’m not sure this was quite enough water for it to “float” well, and it was really hard to get the proper downhill gradient done right:
After that dried, I installed shower pan membrane from home depot:
You have to be careful to not puncture it. I installed the drain, plugged it, and tested for leaks; it seemed fine.
I then applied the second section of cement. Depending on where you read, there are several ways to do this; you could first install the cement backer board and embed the bottom part in the cement (but be sure to NOT put the backer board fully down on the membrane; it has to remain 1-1.5″ above it, otherwise you can get water damage as the pan is designed to drain water seepage out). Instead, I opted to put the backer board up later on top of the cement, which was much easier in not worrying about making a hole in the backer board. I’m glad I did it this way.
Under the backer board is 15# felt tar paper.
For the threshold, I mixed roughly 3-1 sand to cement, and used more water than before. This was MUCH easier to float..but still not the easiest thing to do. The trouble I’m having now is that the cement base/pan has been wearing a way a bit; the coarse sand on top wasn’t floated well, and rubbed off with me walking on it. I’m going to float a tiny bit (1/8″) more cement on top to smooth it out.
Next, all seams were taped with fiberglass tape and mudded with thinset:
Tonight I put “Red Guard” over the niches so they will not leak. Also on the window threshold. Two coats are required. I also put some on other parts of the wall “just in case”. Tiling will commence soon!
Saturday, September 21st, 2013
Playing with tile options (ordered!) and still working on the bathroom remodel project. Cabinets have the finish applied, and I’m doing drywall work. Then plumbing…then tile.
Friday, July 19th, 2013
I tore out the rest of the drywall, and removed the old bath tub. I then started redoing the electrical in prep for the new cabinet. The electrical switches were on the wrong side; they should always be on the opposite side of the door hinges, so they are easy to get to when you open the door. The prior owner seemed to like to always put them on the left, which makes them really difficult to use. I wish I would have realized this before I drywalled my main entrance; otherwise I would have moved the switches. At least now for the bathroom I can move them to the right place:
Sample install of the lighting; I’m glad I did a test install…I decided to move the outlet box up 3″ more. My ceilings are fairly low in the bathroom (roughly 7′), so this is pretty close to the top for the lights, but they should look awesome.
I’m going with one light over the main sink area, and another over the shower/toilet area. I also prepped electrical (and a switch) for an exhaust fan.
The above picture shows the old toilet in the new location (working great). I ordered a super-low flow dual flush toilet that should be here tomorrow.
Next, I fixed up water damage on the floor. My tub/shower had leaked on the sides , damaging the floor pretty bad. I had install some new floor joists and add new plywood flooring (luckily I had some laying around from the prior owner in my shed). I also had to repair water damage from the prior owner that was poorly repaired; I redid it right.
The last thing I recently did is some more sample staining; this is just a coat of water based shellac as a sealer with a stain on top. I’m leaning towards the bottom right or led; the top pieces are too red, and the cherry wood itself will get a darker red brown with time and UV exposure.. Also it will look shinier/different when it has a finish on top (more pictures later when i really do that test).
Friday, July 19th, 2013
I finished my drawers; sprayed 4 coats of Target Coatings Water based lacquer on them. (EmTech 6000). It took a whole gallon to do them all..and ran out right at the end.
These are mainly notes for myself, as I wish I had made notes when I did my last set of drawers. I would first spray the bottoms on edge, like below:
Then drop them into the normal position after they dried and do the rest. I put on two coats, then sanded with 220 to get any bumps off. The bottoms of the smaller drawers got a little too thick on the bottom side…and it is slightly more yellow than I wanted, but still good enough. Four coats seems adequate; more would have too much buildup.
My Mini-mate HVLP pump/compressor.
Friday, July 5th, 2013
The bathroom remodel is a slow project when I do everything myself.
Today I worked on finishing my drawers while also moving the plumbing for my sink. It’s hard to tell, but I cut out the 2″ ABS pipe drain on the left and moved it to the right. This mostly involved messing with stuff under the house. Tomorrow I’m going to learn how to to sold copper soldering and move the water inlets (seen on the left).
Friday, July 5th, 2013
I want my bathroom cabinets to “float”. The top one floats 2″ in the air on top of the bottom cabinet, and the bottom cabinet floats 3″ in the air off the ground. The right hand side can be screwed into the wall, but the left side needs support.
I welded up this bracket; it is bolted to the bottom and bolted to the pair of studs. It is quite sturdy!
The top slips on; for testing to get the position right, I clamped the bracket to the walls, and used a brace on the right side:
It is plenty sturdy and can easily hold my weight on the corner without dipping at all.
The bottom floating cupboard:
It probably wasn’t necessary to make it to literarily float in the air, and I could have used gap pieces to support each section; from a distance you can’t hardly tell if it is floating or not. But still, the concept is cool, and I think it looks good.
Tuesday, June 25th, 2013
Still working on stuff.
Playing with stains; left side is 1/2 cherry ply, right is cherry wood. Bottom has a maple gel stain, top has pennsylvania cherry gel stain.
Cutting all the face pieces to 1 5/8″:
1/2″ wide groove in the center of the 3/4″ piece of wood:
I then put a 45 on the inside, and a V groove with the router table 1/2″ from the outside:
I tanned the boards outside for about ~5-10 minutes to get them a little brown before gluing up. The inside cherry ply is still a little pinker.
It was tricky gluing them together to keep the miters straight; the first two were a bit off, so I just screwed a jig to my table and all the rest were dead straight:
The big cabinet door:
The 45′s have no spline or support; I will probably need to cut some slots and miter in a spline to make them stronger.
Here’s a few of the small drawer faces:
Sunday, June 9th, 2013
My woodworking project continues!
I planed a bunch of maple to 5/8″ thick my drawer thickness. I went with 5/8″ instead of 3/4″, since my top drawers should appear more “dainty” as they are small. I should have done 3/4″ for my larger bottom drawers, but it is too late for that decision.
I used my Leigh dovetail jig to cut the dovetails:
Since these drawers are small, I used 1/4″ maple ply (with a MDF core) for the bottom. My larger drawers will have 1/2″ ply bottoms.
The larger drawers I had to biscuit joint smaller pieces of wood together to get 9″ sides (they are tall!). I should have jointed them together before planing them; then I could have planed them together. Or maybe doing it this way was good and allowed me to work around tearout. I’m not sure what the best approach is. This worked pretty well…but I had to use a lot of clamps to get them aligned really well:
The drawer dovetails weren’t as tight on these…I must have messed up the jig a bit, or not done enough practice cuts on it. They did turn out pretty well, and I can clean them up.
I now have to get more maple for two more large drawers, and then I’ll be done building them all.
Sunday, May 26th, 2013
Tongue and groove practice; I have a height matched set. Note to self: Put the little rubber grommet inside the chuck. Place it on my table, and push the cutter into it until it bottoms out against the grommet. Then I can mount it in the router and it is always at the same height. Cut it with the “good face” down. Have the height set so there is a larger area on the bottom (slightly of, as seen here in the picture):
Here’s a trick I came up with for cutting a straight edge on plywood. The two sides were parallel, but one of the sides was rough from cutting it off with my circular saw. So, I used my parallel clamps to clamp them together and used a smooth side as a guide. I then could flip it and cut the other side.
Fitting of the joints; no glue here:
Gluing it up in small pieces; the face frame was last to be attached:
Stacked to get a feel for what it will be like:
Cupboard above it:
Time to make some drawers, and then all the faces for these cupboards/cabinets.
Tuesday, May 21st, 2013
Well, my bathroom remodel is coming along bit by bit.
I got a new cabinet saw to help with things. I went with the Saw Stop brand saw, which cost a ton, but will potentially save a finger if I accidentally touch the blade.
Most all my wood I purchased from Aura Hardwoods in San Jose. They have pretty decent prices, and a friendly staff. Although you sometimes have to ask for the good wood in the back. I was rifling through a bunch of pretty poor looking cherry plywood sheets trying to find a good one when a guy named Kirk came by and said he could go get a fresh stack with his fork lift from the back. So he pulled them out for me, and I grabbed 4 pristine sheets from the top of the pile. Thanks Kirk, I really appreciated that! I heard Macbeath may have better prices, but they are a bit further away and I haven’t tried them out yet. Southern Lumber is way too expensive. Global wood source has some good selection of different woods. Unfortunately I haven’t been able to find good A1 grade 1/2″ cherry ply, and could only find “Shop grade” (which I’m not sure exactly what that means).
Here’s some end panels for the bathroom sink cabinet:
I’m not so sure I like doing pocket hole stuff for these frames, but it worked out “okay”. I would have rather floated the interior panel inside of it..but I didn’t end up doing that.
Cabinet face frame, showing the tongue and groove joints and pocket hole stuff:
Top floating piece coming together:
Glue-up was crazy. I learned that I should do it in small bits, and not go for all of it at once. It was too much, and I didn’t have enough clamps! I bought 4 more good clamps once I went through this fiasco: