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	<title>Comments on: First Machining Project: Vise Stop</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.corbinstreehouse.com/blog/2009/10/first-machining-project-vise-stop/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.corbinstreehouse.com/blog/2009/10/first-machining-project-vise-stop/</link>
	<description>Corbin Dunn</description>
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		<title>By: corbin</title>
		<link>http://www.corbinstreehouse.com/blog/2009/10/first-machining-project-vise-stop/comment-page-1/#comment-43551</link>
		<dc:creator>corbin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Oct 2009 18:38:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.corbinstreehouse.com/blog/index.php/2009/10/first-machining-project-vise-stop/#comment-43551</guid>
		<description>cool, thanks for the tips bev!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>cool, thanks for the tips bev!</p>
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		<title>By: Bevan</title>
		<link>http://www.corbinstreehouse.com/blog/2009/10/first-machining-project-vise-stop/comment-page-1/#comment-43550</link>
		<dc:creator>Bevan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Oct 2009 18:32:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.corbinstreehouse.com/blog/index.php/2009/10/first-machining-project-vise-stop/#comment-43550</guid>
		<description>Glad to see your writeup, Corbin. Have you considered learning solidworks? It&#039;s like sketchup, except 10x as powerful. Yes, I know you&#039;d have to reboot into windows for it, but I think that its worth it. Solidworks is much, much more powerful than sketchup, and also, hardly anyone uses sketchup for machine design. I have a number of projects drawn in solidworks which i can also send you, if you want.

For the split collars, I think I would have done them slightly differently, so as to avoid having to do an interrupted parting cut in the lathe. Rather than putting the cylindrical cutout in and then parting off, I would do the following:

1. Turn to size, drill, tap, etc. Make blank be overseize in length by the same amount as the kerf of the partoff tool.

2. Part off.

3. Make a washer from anything (steel is cheapest, brass machines the best) that is the same thickness as your partoff tool. Clamp it between the two halfs of the nut.

4. Place nut in the bore where it will be used, and use 1/2&quot; endmill (you can step with a 3/8&quot; EM if you want) to plunge out the hemisphere.

5. Remove the shim, and you are done.

This way no interrupted cuts anywhere. Ideally the cylindrical cutout would happen in the same pass as the hole, but things don&#039;t always work that way.

I think homeshopmachinist.com or practicalmachinist.com would both be good references for you (better than cnczone, IMO). Practicalmachinist is a bit more professionally oriented, but the machinists are very, very skilled, and hey have lots of interesting ideas, projects, and help (if i feel like reading a machining site, it&#039;s PM). The south bend forum is also very much aimed at guys like us who are just working from our garages (although the machinists who post on there aren&#039;t as skilled).</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Glad to see your writeup, Corbin. Have you considered learning solidworks? It&#8217;s like sketchup, except 10x as powerful. Yes, I know you&#8217;d have to reboot into windows for it, but I think that its worth it. Solidworks is much, much more powerful than sketchup, and also, hardly anyone uses sketchup for machine design. I have a number of projects drawn in solidworks which i can also send you, if you want.</p>
<p>For the split collars, I think I would have done them slightly differently, so as to avoid having to do an interrupted parting cut in the lathe. Rather than putting the cylindrical cutout in and then parting off, I would do the following:</p>
<p>1. Turn to size, drill, tap, etc. Make blank be overseize in length by the same amount as the kerf of the partoff tool.</p>
<p>2. Part off.</p>
<p>3. Make a washer from anything (steel is cheapest, brass machines the best) that is the same thickness as your partoff tool. Clamp it between the two halfs of the nut.</p>
<p>4. Place nut in the bore where it will be used, and use 1/2&#8243; endmill (you can step with a 3/8&#8243; EM if you want) to plunge out the hemisphere.</p>
<p>5. Remove the shim, and you are done.</p>
<p>This way no interrupted cuts anywhere. Ideally the cylindrical cutout would happen in the same pass as the hole, but things don&#8217;t always work that way.</p>
<p>I think homeshopmachinist.com or practicalmachinist.com would both be good references for you (better than cnczone, IMO). Practicalmachinist is a bit more professionally oriented, but the machinists are very, very skilled, and hey have lots of interesting ideas, projects, and help (if i feel like reading a machining site, it&#8217;s PM). The south bend forum is also very much aimed at guys like us who are just working from our garages (although the machinists who post on there aren&#8217;t as skilled).</p>
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